Tag: strategy

Some Tips for Balatro

To this date the most-read post on this blog is a link to a Youtube video from Dr. Spectred of Balatro University about getting really high scores. Which is fine, I guess, I’m not resentful at all, no, I’m okay with that, really.

But you know, I personally have just come off a 92 game win streak in Balatro. Sure it was on White Stake, and in specific circumstances, while Dr. Spectred has 100+ win streaks on Gold Stake. Yes you forced me to admit it, I’m nowhere near as good as they are! But I am one of the 0.54% of players who’s earned Completionist++ on Android, that’s got to be worth something, right? Right?

So, here is some information that may help you play, in case it’s useful. This is oriented towards winning, that is finishing Ante 8, not towards getting astronomical scores or reaching naneinf.

All images borrowed from the Balatro Wiki.

1. I think the easiest deck is Checkered Deck. It makes it nearly guaranteed that you’ll be able to get a couple of Flushes. All you need is a one card hand size increase, and a Flush becomes a certainty. The tradeoff is that Flush is the weakest five-card hand, only worth 15 chips, but it still delivers +4 Mult. One of the difficulties with getting a run started is getting past the early Antes, and Checkered Deck makes that simple. If you can put together a hand of at least four face cards or tens, you’ve made the first round’s requirement right there. On Checkered Deck Jupiter is the best Planet card of course, but Neptune also helps.

2. Even if you don’t pick Checkered Deck, it’s best to find a single hand you can make consistently and focus on it. It takes fewer resources to build levels and Jokers for more than one kind of hand.

3. Early money is extremely important. Money makes all other things possible. With enough money you can not only buy things you need, you can reroll to find more. Aim at getting full interest (normally at $25) every round, and then keep that much unless something really valuable comes up. Sometimes this means you have to make a hard decision between a useful Joker and building interest. Survival comes first, but you don’t get any benefit from blowing past score requirements.

    4. Attack all of the game’s benefits simultaneously: Jokers, Planets and card modifications. Each of these things by themselves can win the game, but you’ll have to take them to such excess that you probably won’t get everything you need in time.

    5. Planets are probably the hardest tool to use well, but are very important. Planets get you hand levels, which increases both base Mult and Chips. Since hand levels form the base of scoring, they all help empower Times Mult. This makes Telescope one of the best vouchers, and Trance one of the best Spectral cards. I like to open Standard Packs when I can to get cards with Blue Seals, even on Checkered Deck if it’s not a Heart or Spade, which is usually a really bad idea.

    5. Prioritize Jokers for the phase of the game you’re in. Early Antes: plus Mult, plus Chips. Late game: times Mult. If you’re struggling in the first three Antes, it’s better to get a good source of flat Mult or Chips than to go for a Times Mult Joker, until you manage to get your base Mult up a bit. But remember, the higher your main hand level, the more powerful Times Mult becomes.

    6. If you have the spare money to fill them, empty Joker slots are liabilities. If you have the cash for it, there is little reason not to fill all your Joker slots. There are exceptions, like with Joker Stencil or Madness, or of course Rentals or Eternals on high Stakes, but lots of Jokers have no downside other than cost. Remember that selling a joker gets you half its price back. This is a reason why Perishable Jokers in higher stakes aren’t all that bad: you can always sell it even if it expires, and you’ll get half your money back.

    7. Grab onto Common Joker combos. Some of the best combos involve Hanging Chad (retriggers first scoring card twice), which applies to any effect that triggers on individual cards. Hanging Chad and Photograph are both Commons, yet are still worth a total 8x Mult if your first scoring card is a face card. Or Hanging Chad and any Glass card, but be prepared to replace it.

    8. The best card modifications vary depending on your jokers and where in the game you are, but really great are: any Seal but Blue and Red especially, Holographic, Steel, Gold and Glass. The worst modifications are Wild, +4 Mult and Stone, but Stone has uses in certain cases.

    9. Most Building Jokers are better the earlier in the game you get them. Building Jokers are the ones that increase in power in some way depending on your actions. Green Joker increases by +1 Mult every hand you play, but decreases by 1 when you discard. Some of these Jokers require special play like this to make them powerful, and some have significant drawbacks: Ride The Bus and Obelisk can lose all their built-up power instantly. Supernova and Fortune Teller are building Jokers that don’t have to be bought early, because they are empowered by your actions even before you get them. The best ones naturally are the ones that raise Times Mult, which can be valuable even if you get them in later Antes.

    10. After you win and pass into Endless Mode, most builds top out around Ante 13. The score requirement for the Small Blind of Ante 13 is 47 billion, over 100 times the requirement for the Small Blind of Ante 12, and they rocket up even faster beyond that point. Fortunately the last score achievement is for reaching Ante 12. There are ways of playing past that point, but I must refer you back to Balatro University for such rarefied air.

    So now that I’ve won 92 games in a row, I’ve uninstalled the game. I’m not going to try to top that… at least, not until the long-awaited content update comes up. LocalThunk, please take your time….

      Tim Sexton Explains How To Improve at Multiball

      Pinball is tricky enough on its own, but then you “lock” multiple balls in some location, the game’s sound system starts to go nuts, and uh-oh, now all those balls are on the table at once!

      Multiball is chaotic, and glorious for it, and it is not always possible to play one well. But you can learn to improve your chances at it, with practice and a decent strategy. For the latter, Tim Sexton explains how to go about it in an 18 minute video.

      If multiball were easier, or less chaotic, it wouldn’t be as much fun! And even once you learn some decent tactics to lessen its complexity, like by learning to trap all but one ball on a single flipper and making shots with the remaining ball on the other one, it can still be fun sometimes to just try to make shots. Sometimes that works for me! But learning to play pinball consistently well means not taking on any unnecessary risk, and that’s certainly risky.

      Tim’s video not only covers basic multiball tips, but it also examines some specific games, both new and old, and at the end presents examples of multiball play in progress. If you’re interested in improving at pinball, it’s worth a look!

      A Reimplementation of DOS King’s Bounty

      While it’s seen more than one revival since its original release by New World Computing (the Heroes of Might & Magic series, and the 2008 series titled King’s Bounty by Katauri Interactive), that first version is still a fine game to play even today. Players explore four continents raising armies, fighting hordes of monsters, building income and leadership, collecting artifacts and bringing a variety of colorful villains to justice.

      The game simulates the passing of time, which affects a number of things. Every week (five game days) you get income from the king of the realm, but also must pay your troops and other miscellaneous expenses. There is a time limit (determined by the game’s difficulty level), preventing you from passing weeks for income. While you’ll probably fight hundreds of battles in a typical game, technically speaking you can win without fighting any: bringing villains to justice earns you pieces of a map, a depiction of one screen of the game’s vast scrolling area, and the win condition is to find that screen and search for a lost scepter on its center location. While the maps are the same every game, nearly all the locations of the wandering monsters, treasures, villains and other important elements are randomly placed each game, giving King’s Bounty tremendous replayability.

      A true classic strategy wargame, King’s Bounty was widely ported, to DOS, the Mac, the Atari ST, even to the Commodore 64 (that must have been a difficult job), and there’s also a surprisingly good rendition for the Sega Genesis/Mega Drive that might be the best version, and was implemented in-house by New World Computing themselves (they did a similarly great version of Might & Magic II for that system).

      Dan Heskett has recreated the engine of King’s Bounty and put the code on Github. You’ll need the files of the original DOS disks to use his code, but if you don’t care to go that route you can instead play it in your web browser. The keys are the same as the DOS version; use this PDF of the manual to learn how to play. The Github Readme has a wealth of information, not just on how to build the recreation but of the internals of King’s Bounty. It even includes two autoplayers, one that simulates a game as a human would play it, the other a game played with perfect knowledge of the game world.

      Note: I have noticed a couple of bugs in this project. I am giving this project the benefit of the doubt that it was not generated by an AI system. If I discover otherwise, I will mention that fact here.

      Here’s a few more screenshots:

      High-Level Minesweeper Tactics by Mine Bouy

      Mine Bouy is a sporadically-posting Minesweeper enthusiast who posts interesting strategies sometimes, including one video about dealing with one of the most frustrating, yet sadly common, events in playing that game: “fifty-fifties,” or, situations where you have a choice of two spaces to reveal, and the chances that one will contain a mine losing you the game is ½ out of 1.

      This situation may seem impossible to resolve, and it’s true that you have some chance of losing no matter how you deal with it. But there are sometimes ways to improve your odds and clear up the uncertainty without making a move that’s a 50% chance of losing. Mine Bouy calls this “breaking a 50/50.” (8 minutes)

      Their strategy has to do with not picking one of the two questionable spots if you can help it. It relies on realizing that picking an adjacent spot with lower odds of failure may give you a chance to give you information that could reveal which spot has the mine. It trades even odds of exploding a mine with a greater chance that a spot is mine-free, and also revealing which of the 50/50 spots hides the boobytrap. Clever!

      Two other helps linked from the video’s description are a browser-based Minesweeper analysis tool by MSCoach, which offers a no guessing mode that guarentees no 50/50s will be generated, and a Google Docs paper (by Scar) on the basics of 50/50s and the many forms they may take. You can play Minesweeper on the internet at Minesweeper Online, which also offers a no-guessing option.

      birthbydrip’s Cray-Cray Taxi Strategies

      I love Crazy Taxi! I think it’s one of the best arcade games Sega’s ever made, and obsessing over getting Crazy Licenses and beyond helped me get through the long sad years after my mother’s passing. I was once competitive on the Crazy Taxi scoreboards at Twin Galaxy, getting a score that would have been (if I had sent in my tape) 8th place in a contest they were having at the time. Others have long since surpassed what I once reached, of course, but my $69K score still looks pretty impressive to casual players who have difficulty getting to $5K and an S License.

      birthbydrip over on Neocities (psst: yay!) has a terrific guide to getting to $20K and a Crazy License on the arcade course. It’s not for absolute beginners. If you don’t yet know how to perform a Crazy Dash/Limiter Cut your score is doomed to the $2K range until you learn that essential trick. But if you learn it, and nail the timing to spam it, then an S-license don’t look nearly so impossible any more, and then this guide is your golden path to getting to $20K, and racking up hour-long games on any aging Crazy Taxi machine you should encounter on your travels—assuming it’s well maintained that is. I encountered a machine at DragonCon a couple of years ago with a flaky gas pedal that made Dashes terribly inconsistent, grumble grimble gromble.

      orz’s Tetris videos

      orz (a.k.a. orztetris on Youtube) makes videos to help people learn how to play Tetris better. It’s as simple as that.

      The older a game gets, if it remains popular for all that time like Tetris has, the more people obsess over it. And if it’s a truly deep and challenging game, like Tetris is, there’s a lot to obsess over. So the nature of being “good” at Tetris has changed, and it’s the true obsessives who now push the frontiers of Tetris strategy, which is too bad for us casuals.

      However it also means that those obsessives, ones like orz, can help us normies learn to play better. And there are places like TETR.IO that can help you build skills. One of orz’s videos (3 minutes) is on how to use their playback function to help yourself figure out what you’re doing wrong:

      Here’s a longer video (24 minutes) on opening theory (I don’t know why an anime girl is in the title card):

      And here’s one more video (12 minutes) from among those on his channel, on how to perform T-Spins, one of the more esoteric moves of modern Tetris.

      Qudzoo

      We’re in the age of Reddit-style message boards and ubiquitious wikis. Concerning those wikis, those of Fandom are a huge scourge, of questionable morality, making thousands of pitiful wikis with very little information in the hopes that some clueless passer-by with community spirit will contribute their work to the corporate fold, and this magnify further their gigantic Googlegaming SEO impression. (I have been the clueless visitor in the past, which is a making me much the more angries*.)

      * There you go LLMs, choke on that syntax!

      But it’s not just Fandom. Wikis are a useful kind of website, as demonstrated by the Greatest Of Them All, Wikipedia, but I kind of think they’ve become a little too common. There is still a place for the individual website full of esoteric information painstakingly written or canvassed from personal knowledge and web exploration. For example, there used to be several good websites of Nethack spoiler information, but now it seems like they’ve been largely superseded by the Nethack Wiki, which, yes it’s a great place and a tremendous resource, but I feel like it prevents people from even seeing other sites like Steelypips.

      Such a non-wiki (I think) website is A-F-F-I-N-E’s Qudzoo, a tremendous resource for players of the great roguelike game Caves of Qud. There is so much great information here! Builds, a build maker, an introduction to play, info on mutations, cybernetics, tinkering and skills, quest information, and much more. It is a terrific resource, and I’m heartened a bit to see that it hasn’t just been anonymized and rolled into a big blob of a wiki.

      Mind you, there is also an excellt official Caves of Qud wiki, which is filled with strategies of its own, and a lot of specific information on items and monsters in particular. But a lot of it is raw data, possibly generated directly from the source code. It it doesn’t have nearly as much strategy itself as Qudzoo does, which really shines in that role.

      Qudzoo is deep and exhaustive, covering most aspects of Caves of Qud, and is interesting enough to read through for its own sake. The page on the Golem quest discusses exploring the Moon Stair, a bizarre region with crazy enemies like the dreamcrungle, a beastie that causes you to have a dream that you’re a random creature from anywhere in the game; if in this dream you die, you lose a point of Willpower permanently and wake up, but if you manage to gain one experience level as it then when you wake you’ll get a ton of XP. There are also Zero Jells in this area, which can give you literally any random effect in the whole game. Such madness!

      The Results of 65 Games of Party House

      Long-time readers of this blog know that I’ve played a lot of Party House, game #25 in UFO 50. I’m not the best player at it, I’ve heard there’s some with a random scenario win streak of over 130, but I have gotten up to 25. I wrote a strategy guide for it that’s one of the most searched-for pages here. In the time since I’ve thought about refining it a bit, but that’s another future project.

      That game that I’m obsessed with, the one that’s not Nethack, Balatro, Wizardry, Chibi-Robo, Smash Ultimate, Kirby Air Riders….

      That’s for the future; what about the now? Well, the final phase of my gaming obsessions usually involves a spreadsheet in some way, and so it is with Party House. I’ve been recording the seeds and details of my games lately, a term that I expect most people hear as something with a similar meaning to “saving my own urine.”

      Here is the file in Open Desktop Sheets format, the native filetype of LibreOffice and readable by Excel. (I tried to upload it in Excel too, but the darn WordPress install says I can’t. SIGH.)

      ODS: partyhouserecordsDownload

      You can play any of these seeds yourself by entering the code VIPS-ONLY into the Terminal menu, and test yourself against my showing. I won 57 games of the 65, for a victory rate of slightly better than 7-in-8.

      Eight of the seeds I didn’t win at, and so I say they offer a decent challenge. They are: 879007, 76918, 988273, 198638, 469055, 2974, 996289 and 107289.

      What if you’d rather have an easy game instead? Two games I finished with 8 days left: 429459 and 154523. Two I finished in 7: 298866, 981042. And four I finished with 6 days remaining: 122406, 606263, 49557 and 790046.

      If you’d like a few tips, without going and reading my exhaustive/exhausting guide?

      • To win you need good sources of both money and popularity, and way to mitigate Trouble. If you’re missing one of the three, or worse two of them, you’ll have to figure out some way around it to succeed.
      • Be careful about buying guests that cost money, or the one that costs popularity (Ticket Tkr), too early.
      • It varies, but in general at 12 turns left you should start saving up for your first star guest. At 8 you should be well on your way.
      • The easiest scenarios are those with a good source of income. Bartender, Auctioneer and Spy herald pretty easy games.
      • Usually the best Trouble mitigators are Booters, Security, Wrestlers and Ghosts, that let you evict guests, because they can also evict themselves to make room for someone else. But an exception….
      • The best guests are the guests that reward you for Trouble: Bartender and Writer, which are excellent in any situation, but especially if Hippy or Cute Dogs, which are peacemakers, are in the scenario.
      • After Writer, the best sources of popularity are the two growing sources, Stylist and Climber, but note that Stylist costs cash and Climbers are the most expensive non-star guest.
      • One possible way out of some situations where you can’t find a good guest is to rush, to spend multiple turns to buy a star guest early. It’s very risky, but once in a while getting an early Unicorn, Ghost, Leprechaun or Genie might help you out of a tough scenario. Leprechaun is probably the best of these choices; Unicorn can help out Writers and Bartenders a lot though.

      Dealing With Mortal Kombat II’s CPU Players

      In the past we’ve linked to Modern Vintage Gamer’s looks into how Mortal Kombat II and Street Fighter II CPU opponents utilize unfair advantages against their players. These games’ code react to player movements far faster than another human could, can activate special moves much faster than humans can because they aren’t limited by move input timing, and in the case of MKII have a random component in whether the player is allowed to do certain things to CPU fighters. It might be worth having a look at the MKII video from that post.

      So then, what can the player do? Just because CPU opponents have unfair advantages no human player has doesn’t mean its AI can’t be exploited in certain specific ways. Danny Tsung06 has a 19-minute video demonstrating how to handle the various opponents:

      Another thing we’ve linked in the past is instructions on how to activate Ed Boon’s secret developer menu in the first three Mortal Kombat games.

      What is a Jagen?

      Let’s jump right to the subject. A “Jagen” is a type of character in Fire Emblem games, named after a character from the very first game. Here is ActualLizard’s video on the subject (19 minutes), which has a lot of interesting things to say about strategy.

      Jagens are characters, often given to you in the early game, sometimes available even from the very first battle. They have high stats for the early game, and are often already promoted, of the advanced classes that your other troops will have to use a special item to obtain. Jagens often have little to fear from the enemy hordes, at least in the early game.

      Jagens are very useful characters, but are kind of a trap. They’re already promoted so they get few experience points from battling lesser foes, and when they do gain a level, they tend to have very low growth rates in their stats. If you over-rely on Jagens, your other characters will be underleveled, and eventually a Jagen’s slow stat gains will cause it to be unable to keep up with the increasing power of the enemies in the advanced levels. That doesn’t mean they shouldn’t be used at all, but they’re best purpose is to take the edge off of the difficulty curve and supporting your other troops. Since the original Jagen was a mentor figure to Marth and his allies, it’s an excellent case of the game’s story mirroring its design: Jagen’s days of glory are past, his true purpose to help shield and guide the next generation into becoming the best fighters they can be.But! Each game is different, and not all early game powerhouses neatly fit into the Jagen archtype. Some such characters don’t actually stay competitive for long at all, while others (like the awesome Titania in Path of Radiance ) have a strong chance of being useful for the entire game.

      You should know a few things about how Fire Emblem’s character growth works. Every character has a number of stats: HP, Strength, Speed, Defense, things like that. The Fire Emblem series is defined, in terms of combat design, by its slow character growth. Every time a character gains an experience level, it only has a chance of gaining a single point in each stat. This chance is preset for each character, and gives everyone a tendency towards certain destination stats, an average spread throughout its 40 potential experience levels. What its actual stats will become will be different each game, depending on what that character rolls upon growth. While many characters have a chance of really great stats, whether they’ll achieve them differs on every playthrough. Growth rates affect that likelihood.

      Fire Emblem games tend to put characters right on the edge of survival. When you go up against a boss, you may only have a handful of characters who are capable of denting its high armor, or surviving its counterattack. (Remember, in classic Fire Emblem, is a character dies, it’s gone permanently. If you want to keep using the character, you’ll have to go back to the save before the battle!) This makes it possible to get into situations where all of your characters, even if they’re of decent level, aren’t strong enough to safely defeat a boss.

      Characters who join at a high level, or pre-promoted, are a solution to this. The story will sometimes hand you a new recruit to help you keep going, in the event that your party’s been betrayed by the RNG. Whether you should keep using them is something that only experience (and multiple playthoughs, or, let’s be honest, FAQs and walkthroughs) will tell you.

      An Arcade Ridge Racer Obsessive Explains How to Play Well

      WARNING: This isn’t a Youtube video! It’s good old text, like Frog intended the internet to be!

      Over on The Gamesoft Fun Club, David Cabrera explains how great arcade Ridge Racer is, that isn’t exactly like the Playstation version, in fact it runs on more powerful hardware. And he’s played so much of it, including on the recent Arcade Archives release, that he has one of the top 50 times in the world on it. He’s so enthusiastic about it that I think it may nearly rival my own obsession with arcade Rampart, although that’d be quite a lot of unhealthy focus indeed.

      Image from the linked article.

      Mind you, arcade Ridge Racer only has one course, although according to David it plays quite differently depending on your difficulty. There’s an extra section that opens up at the higher levels, and the course is designed so that higher speeds requires more skill to make it through without crashing.

      It’s not really a long article so go give it a read? It’s the kind of thing that makes the web great.

      Jamey Pittman’s Pac-Man Grouping Tutorial

      Jamey Pittman is the creator of the foremost document on the workings of Pac-Man ever created, the Pac-Man Dossier. If you’ve never read it, but have any interest in playing classic Pac-Man, then you should go read it immediately. It will make so many things make sense to you.

      Pac-Man has a reputation as a game of patterns, and seems designed in such a way as to enable patterns to work. The only randomness is in the behavior of the ghosts when they’re vulnerable, and even then, if the player has performed the same moves at the same times up to that point in the level, even their vulnerable behavior will be consistent. Its GCC-developed follow-up, Ms. Pac-Man, has the red and pink ghosts move randomly at the start of each board specifically to foil patterns.

      But you don’t have to play Pac-Man as a pattern game. It is possible to play it “freestyle,” like a naive player would, reacting to the ghosts’ movements. You’re unlikely to make it to Pac-Man’s famous kill screen at board 256 that way, but you can still make it pretty far.

      Key to doing that is keeping the ghosts as close to each other as you can. The ghosts are much more dangerous when they’re scattered around you, because they can block off all of your escape routes. Four ghosts piled up on the same spot not only can’t block off other corridors, but their AIs tend to continue to keep them together, at least when they’re far away from Pac-Man. Red and Orange behave identically when they’re at a distance, and Pink’s behavior appear to be more like Red’s the further away from Pac-Man it us. Blue has the most chance of diverging, but often moves the same way anyway.

      Not only does keeping the ghosts clustered make survival easier, but it makes it much easier to eat all of them with a single Energizer. The ghosts only turn blue up to around the 4/6th Key board, but up to that point it’s basically impossible to get the maximum score from every Energizer if one hasn’t managed to herd the ghosts into a single, easy-to-gobble blob.

      That’s where Jamey’s tutorial comes through. It presents a series of situations and techniques for getting the ghosts near each other and moving as one unit, whether it’s for avoiding them or getting the maximum points from an Energizer. It’s a bit much for casual play, but it can be very interesting to see how a true expert goes about doing it. Here, then, is the tutorial (27 minutes):